VancodermadminUnderstanding Chemical Peels: A Focus on Salicylic Acid for Acne Treatment
Faramarz Rafie M.D. / Vancoderm Academy (VDA) / Vancoderm Clinic (Vdcmed.com)
Hi Readers,
Chemical peeling has become one of the most popular and effective treatments in aesthetic skincare—and for good reason. From addressing pigmentation, acne, to refining texture, peels offer a powerful yet controlled method of skin rejuvenation. At Vancoderm Academy, we train our students to perform chemical skin peels with professionalism, safety, and precision. This week, I’m excited to share a blog post about Chemical Skin Peeling, with a special focus on #Salicylic_Acid_Peels for acne treatment. To demonstrate the effectiveness of this procedure, I’ve included before-and-after photos from a recent Salicylic Acid peel performed on acne-prone skin.
If you’re interested in mastering the art of #advanced_skincare, we welcome you to explore our professional training programs at Vancoderm Academy, where real results meet expert #Medical_Aesthetician education.
#Chemical_Skin_Peeling:
Chemical peeling is a controlled skin exfoliation procedure in which a chemical solution is applied to the skin to induce controlled destruction of superficial or deeper layers. The process promotes the regeneration of new, smoother, and more evenly pigmented skin.
Chemical peels are indicated for:
- Fine lines and wrinkles (especially around the eyes and mouth)
- Hyperpigmentation, melasma, and sunspots
- Acne and acne scars
- Dull or uneven skin tone and texture
- Photoaging and superficial scars
- Actinic keratosis (for deeper peels)
- Enlarged pores
Contraindications:
- Active skin infections (e.g., herpes simplex, bacterial or fungal infections)
- Open wounds or compromised skin barrier
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding (for most peels)
- Recent facial surgery or radiation therapy
- Use of isotretinoin (within past 6–12 months)
- Allergy to ingredients in the peel
- Uncontrolled diabetes or autoimmune disorders
- History of keloids or poor wound healing
Classification of Chemical Peels, Based on depth of skin penetration:
Chemical peels are categorized based on the depth of skin penetration, which determines their strength, purpose, and appropriate use. Very superficial peels act on the stratum corneum and offer mild exfoliation for a refreshed glow, often using enzyme peels or low-percentage AHAs and BHAs. Superficial peels reach the full epidermis and target fine lines, mild pigmentation, and acne using agents like 20–30% glycolic acid or 10–20% salicylic acid. Medium-depth peels penetrate into the upper dermis and are suitable for treating moderate wrinkles, pigment issues, and acne scarring with agents such as 35–50% TCA or Jessner’s solution. Deep peels, which extend into the mid-reticular dermis, are reserved for severe skin concerns like deep wrinkles and scarring, often using phenol.
The active ingredients in chemical peels vary in function and strength. AHAs like glycolic acid (20–70%) and lactic acid (10–50%) are commonly used for exfoliation, brightening, and hydration, especially on dry or aging skin. Salicylic acid (10–30%), a BHA, is oil-soluble and excellent for acne and oily skin due to its comedolytic and anti-inflammatory properties. TCA is a versatile medium-depth acid used in concentrations from 10–50% for texture, pigmentation, and aging skin. Mandelic acid, a gentler AHA, suits sensitive or darker skin tones, while Jessner’s solution, a blend of salicylic, lactic, and resorcinol, is effective for acne and pigmentation.
Other powerful ingredients include phenol, used full-strength for deep peels addressing severe skin damage and wrinkles, and retinoic acid (0.1–5%), which boosts cell turnover and can be used as a peel or in preparation for deeper peels. Azelaic acid is often used to treat rosacea, PIH, and acne in concentrations of 10–20%. Finally, enzymatic peels using natural ingredients like papain and bromelain offer mild exfoliation suitable for sensitive or maintenance treatments, providing a fresh glow without downtime.
Neutralizer:
A neutralizing product is a solution used to safely stop the action of acid-based chemical peels, particularly AHAs like glycolic, lactic, and Mandelic acids—especially when used at concentrations above 20%. These products help restore the skin’s natural pH (around 5.5), preventing over-exfoliation, burns, and irritation. Neutralization is typically necessary for stronger AHA and TCA peels, while self-neutralizing peels—such as salicylic acid, Jessner’s solution, phenol, and low-concentration lactic acid—do not require a neutralizer as they stop working on their own once absorbed or crystallized.
Neutralizing solutions usually contain alkaline agents like sodium bicarbonate, sodium hydroxide, or magnesium hydroxide, often combined with soothing botanical extracts such as chamomile or aloe. To use a neutralizer, it is applied directly after the peel’s application time or if excessive stinging occurs. Signs like fizzing may appear, especially with bicarbonate formulas. The area is then rinsed with cool water, and post-peel care—including hydration and sun protection—is essential to support skin recovery and prevent complications
Salicylic Acid Peel:
Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) derived from willow bark. Being oil-soluble, it penetrates deeply into pores to exfoliate both the skin’s surface and inside the sebaceous glands. Salicylic acid peels are highly effective for treating acne, oily skin, clogged pores, and superficial pigmentation.
Mechanism of Action
- Keratolytic: Breaks down desmosomes (cellular connections) in the stratum corneum, promoting exfoliation.
- Comedolytic: Penetrates and dissolves sebum and debris inside pores.
- Anti-inflammatory: Reduces redness and swelling associated with acne.
- Antibacterial: Helps reduce P. acnes bacteria.
- (Thank you, Instructor Lila)
Indications
- Active acne (whiteheads, blackheads, pustules)
- Oily or congested skin
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)
- Enlarged pores
- Uneven skin texture
- Mild photoaging
- Dull complexion
Contraindications
- Salicylate allergy (aspirin sensitivity)
- Active eczema or open wounds
- Pregnancy (use with caution or under supervision)
- Roaccutane/Isotretinoin use within the past 6–12 months
- Severely dry or sensitive skin
- Active infections (e.g., herpes simplex)
Concentrations and Strengths
| Concentration | Effect | Use |
| 5–10% | Mild exfoliation | Sensitive or maintenance treatments |
| 15–20% | Moderate peeling, minimal downtime | Acne, oily skin, enlarged pores |
| 25–30% | Stronger peel | Moderate acne, seborrheic skin, PIH |
Note: Higher concentrations should only be used by trained professionals.
Application Protocol (Professional Use)
Pre-treatment:
- Cleanse skin thoroughly.
- Degrease using alcohol or acetone prep.
- Avoid moisturizers, as they block acid penetration.ApplicationApply with brush, gauze, or cotton-tipped applicator.
- Expect mild tingling or stinging.
- Pseudo-Frosting or white precipitation may occur—this is crystallization, not true epidermal frost.
- Leave-on Time
- 1–5 minutes, depending on skin tolerance and peel strength.
- Salicylic acid is self-neutralizing; no neutralizer is needed.
Removal
-
- Rinse with cool water or use a damp towel to gently wipe off excess.
- Apply a soothing serum or post-peel balm.
Post-Care
- Avoid sun exposure and wear broad-spectrum SPF 30–50+ daily.
- Use gentle cleanser and hydrating products for 3–5 days.
- Avoid actives like retinoids, AHAs, scrubs, or exfoliants for 5–7 days.
- Light flaking or peeling may occur in 2–3 days.
Benefits of Salicylic Acid Peels
- Clears acne and prevents breakouts
- Reduces pore size and oil production
- Fades dark spots and PIH
- Improves skin smoothness and brightness
Salicylic acid peels are generally well-tolerated and effective for treating acne and oily skin, but like any chemical exfoliation, they can come with temporary side effects. Common and expected reactions include mild redness, tingling during application, and a feeling of tightness or dryness in the days following the peel. Light flaking or peeling usually begins within 2–3 days and can last up to a week, depending on the peel’s strength and the individual’s skin type. Some people may also experience temporary purging, where breakouts initially worsen before improving as the peel brings congestion to the surface.
More serious or prolonged side effects are rare but can include post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially in darker skin tones if sun protection is not used. In rare cases, improper application may cause burns, blistering, or scarring. To minimize risks, salicylic acid peels should be applied by trained professionals using the correct concentration and technique, and clients must follow proper aftercare. This includes avoiding sun exposure, applying sunscreen daily, and using gentle, hydrating products to support the skin’s healing process.
Stay tuned for more skincare insights, and have a great week!